This will help bond the old and new together. STEP 2: Reinforce the patchĪt the joint between the existing wall and the new patch, apply self- adhesive fiberglass mesh tape.
#Patch plaster walls Patch#
If necessary, add wooden nailing surfaces at the edge of the wallboard patch to be certain it remains flat and stable. Replace damp or molding wallboard that sags. When working directly on a masonry surface, use a club hammer and cold chisel rake out the joints to a depth of a quarter inch so that the plaster can form “keys” in the joints, adding strength to the new surface. Experiment first in a closet, the attic, or a workroom area where you can glean valuable dos and don’ts from the inevitable imperfections.Īnother good approach is to try patching first. If you have no experience with plaster or its near relative, joint compound, don’t learn in your living room. Brush off the dust and wipe the area with a clean, damp rag or sponge to remove the scraping and sanding dust before coating it again with mud.Finishing a new wall or room with plaster or joint compound takes practice. A completely smooth surface is not required here, just remove any high points. Use course to medium sandpaper to remove any other bumps, etc. Let the joint compound set until it hardens and then use the joint knife with an upward stroke to shave off any ridges or other roughness in the surface. After it sets you can scrape these off before applying another coat of mud. Ignore any ridges or other inconsistencies in the mud surface. Rest the board on the surrounding surface and drag it across the wet mud a couple times to smooth out the high points in the overall repair. If you have a large area to repair, use a long, thin board like a piece of lattice molding to go over the whole area at once. Also, avoid leaving thick mud around the perimeter to avoid unnecessary sanding when you're done. As you work, don't let mud build up higher over the repair area than it is on the surrounding surfaces to keep things level.
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"Butter" the area with about a ¼ inch coat of mud and then immediately go back over it to skim off the excess using parallel strokes from one side of the repair to the other.įloat the blade across the deeper damage to fill it in and skim harder on the surrounding walls to leave a very thin coat there. Mix a small amount of compound and use a flexible joint knife to apply a first coat. Repair shallow surface damage using several thin coats of joint compound to fill in the missing plaster and level out the wall.
#Patch plaster walls how to#
Check here for a video demonstrating how to repair water-damaged plaster If you have more severe plaster damage with wall material falling off the lath, use the process at this link to make repairs. The repair process on this page can be used to repair water damage to the surface layers of plaster walls and ceilings. Ready-mixed compound will not be hard enough and is vulnerable to any residual moisture in the wall material.
Plaster that has gotten wet is best repaired using setting-type joint compound, also called mud. In some cases, the lath may also be damaged, showing rotted wood or rusted metal under the plaster coats. Water damage effects may be minor, isolated to the surface layer of the wall, or it may penetrate the whole 3-coat structure, causing crumbling brown and scratch coats that fall off the lath. As the surface dries, it may harden and the surrounding paint will begin to flake off. With a heavy soaking, the surface may begin to bubble from the chemical reaction of the lime. A brown stain may appear in ceilings or walls. When three-coat plaster gets wet, even slightly, the surface will usually show some visual signs.
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